Wines for Thanksgiving

Tastings: Giving thanks that the wines match the meal
By Lisa Ramirez
For the Times Herald-Record
November 18, 2007
Thanksgiving dinner is, arguably, the most anticipated meal of the year, and, for many of us, our very favorite.
Choosing the right wines, though, can be a challenge.
"Thanksgiving dinner is not an easy meal to cater for when it comes to wine," says Marcus Guiliano, the chef and owner at Aroma Thyme Bistro in Ellenville. "The food, while fun, is all over the map in terms of flavors. Sure, there's turkey, stuffing, gravy. But what wine goes with sweet potatoes topped with marshmallow? Brussels sprouts and chestnuts? Cranberry sauce? Sour-cherry stuffing? Or any of the other interesting, once-a-year specialties by region and family preference?"
The second challenge, Guiliano says, is the range of palettes likely gathered at the table.
"(Your guests will) include regular wine drinkers, such as those who only drink red, and want massive, tannic cabernets, and others who hardly ever drink wine and may even feel a bit intimidated by the whole idea," Guiliano says.
This year, Guiliano will be serving a couple of inexpensive, excellent South African white wines for Thanksgiving feasting. Both come from the Robertson winery, situated in the valley of the same name, in western Cape Province.
"We like Robertson's chenin blanc and gewürztraminer (each about $10-$12) because they will happily accompany everything that Thanksgiving dinner can throw at them," Guiliano says. "The chenin blanc has a dry finish, but is fruity, soft and very easy to drink. The gewürztraminer has the spiciness one associates with this grape, but has been made German style, with some residual sugar, and is thus a great wine to offer people who like a little sweetness."
Guiliano notes that gewürztraminer is a nice wine to introduce to people who are fans of blush wines like white zinfandel.
"The name may be a little harder to say, but people generally love it," Guiliano.
Guiliano also loves to serve prosecco, the lively fruity wine from Veneto, Italy, on Thanksgiving — especially if he's serving a crowd.
"Champagne at $50 a pop may be a bit too steep for a table of six, 10, 12 or more, but prosecco can be had for much less," Guiliano says. "In fact, good proseccos like the organic Perlage Riva Moretta Prosecco we serve at Aroma Thyme can be had for $15 a bottle. Other proseccos can be found for less, (and) nearly all prosecco is just a pleasure to pour and drink."
Prosecco, the chef notes, is a little less acidic and considerably less structured than champagne, which, he says, " helps when you're drinking it to accompany that sour cherry stuffing, or the sweet potatoes topped with marshmallows. Just chill it for an hour or so before dinner and start popping corks."
Michael Taiani, a Pine Bush-based wine consultant and owner of winesbytheglass.net, offers some suggestions with various budgets in mind.
In whites, Taiani likes St. Urbans-Hof Riesling (about $12) from Germany. "It's slightly sweet,'' he says, "and very good for the price.
If you plan to spend a little bit more, try the Chateau Ste. Michelle "Eroica" Riesling (about $20) from Washington state. Taiani calls it an "awesome wine with a lengthy finish."
In reds, Taiani recommends Georges Duboeuf Moulin-A-Vent "de la Tour du Bief" (about $15). "Simply killer," Taiani says, with a style very similar to high-quality pinot noirs. And if budget allows, try California's Seasmoke Pinot Noir. Expect to pay upward of $30, but, he says, "quite worth it with rich flavors and a velvety mouth feel."
And for Taiani, Thanksgiving must include a tawny port. From Australia he likes the Benjamin Tawny Port (about $13), a "basic, well-made" port. For something special, he loves the 20-year-old Taylor Fladgate from Portugal (about $43-$50), which, he says, is considered by many to be "the absolute best."