Monday, February 12, 2007

Champagne for Valentines Day, Dining Hudson Valley



For Valentine's Day, and other romantic moments, I have to say, that for me, and my wife, Champagne is the first beverage that comes to mind. Unfortunately, there are millions of people just like us all over the world, which keeps the price of the fabulous stuff right up there at the edge of affordability, or even, alas, beyond. This sad fact of life is something that we have contemplated on a great many occasions, frequently with an empty bottle of Veuve Clicquot or Louis Roederer Brut sitting between us. Happily, a multitude of other winemakers have done their best to do something about this situation. Their efforts, while never quite champagne, are oftendelicious. Among our favorites at Aroma Thyme Bistro are Rumball's Sparkling Shiraz from Australia, and Nivole. a cremant sparkling Moscato from Italy's famous Asti. If you're out shopping for champagne and its rivals for this February 14 you will find your champagne choices limited in our region. Non Vintage Brut from two or three makers, plus the occasional bottle of a luxury cuvee at absurd prices is about all you'll find.When you consider that Non Vintage Champagne comes in the following styes-- Extra Brut (the driest), Brut, Extra Dry, Sec (slightly sweet), Demi (definitely sweet) and Doux, you can see how deprived we are. A bottle of Doux, by the way, if you can find one, can make a delicious dessert wine and a memorable way to end a fine meal. However, Brut is what we'll be seeing on the shelves. Please remember that Bruts and their equivalents are not all the same. There's a huge difference between, say, Taittinger NV Brut-- made with a high proportion of Chardonnay grapes, and Louis Roederer Brut, made from 2 parts Pinot Noir to one of Chardonnay. And if you want to have a fun, if slightly expensive, dinner party sometime, have a champagne tasting. First, however, make sure you have champagne flutes to drink the lovely stuff from. At Aroma Thyme Bistro we use the Riedel flutes, because they are just perfectly elegant and flawlessly rimless. However, any flute will do the job, and once you have them you're set up for all the other sparklers that fill the wine store shelves, like Italian Proseccos and Spumante, Spanish Cava, or the excellent Californian sparkling wines made by methode champenoise in a variety of styles. And, it's that methode, by the way, that lifts champagne and its closest relatives above the bubbling herd. Some basic notes:-- Brut Champagnes are blends of wine made from Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. Each champagne house blends wines from different years, different cuvees to come up with their house style.When you step up to Vintage Champagne, if you can find it, you are entering the rarified air at the height of the wine world. Vintage wines are only made in the best years, they are usuallymade with more Pinot Noir and less Chardonnay (but not always) and they can be laid down for several years ageing. Some of the greatest wines I have ever tasted have been vintagechampagnes. At Aroma Thyme Bistro we have Krug 1995 waiting for that lucky someone. Beyond the Vintage wines lie the Luxury Cuvees, the Dom Perignons, Cristals and Comtes de Champagnes. Glamorized by the likes of investment bankers and rap stars, these wines are fabulous, and, yes, expensive. Guys, you know that if you spring for Taittinger's Comtes de Champagnes, Clicquot's La Grande Dame, or Roederer Cristal, she's gonna be impressed. It's just the way the world is. Just remember, while you're busy impressing, or being impressed, to savor the wine, because these lovelies are all superstar wines and you don't want to miss anything in the excitement of the moment. Coming back to earth, and to Brut champagnes and good efforts from California, or niceProseccos from Italy, there are a few standouts to look for. From California I like the ChandonBlanc de Noir, which I think always provides pretty good value for money. From Italy, I like Prosecco, it's a great way to start any dinner party, or even a nice romantic night out. At Aroma Thyme we have Mionetto Prosecco Brut, from the Valdobiadene, a really nice example of this wine. We also have the unusual, but tasty Canaletto sparkling Pinot Grigio, Cuvee Brut. If your significant other is a Pinot Grigio fan, this wine will be an eye opener! So, here's to Valentine's Day. Pop one or two of those big fat corks, pour some bubbly into a pair of flutes and here's to romance!


Chris Rowley

Aroma Thyme Bistro


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